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lynnegarrett

Forget fur – is it time to stop wearing wool?

While anti-fur protesters were busy mobbing London fashion week earlier this month, Ingrid Newkirk, the co-founder and president of Peta, was otherwise engaged. She was in Israel, “leading a 30,000-strong march through the streets against live export”, she says. She enunciates the words slowly, with emphasis, as if this is the really important story. Because for Newkirk, fur is all but dealt with – “a minority issue”. By which she means it is worn by “older people … ladies of the evening and the occasional foreign visitor from an unenlightened area”. Nothing to worry about there, she says, as neither sex workers nor the elderly are “a good advertisement”.

But surely this is wrong. Despite Yoox Net-a-Porter’s announcement in June that it would no longer sell fur, designers are still using it liberally. One designer recently matter-of-factly enumerated the animals that had gone into a single garment. The most photographed shoe of 2016 was a Gucci kangaroo loafer, and the same house is currently selling a mink coat for £25,000.

If a full fur coat has become a rare sight, the fur industry has trimmed its pelts accordingly and encouraged a thriving market in accessories. This is stealth fur, fur for people who would never wear a coat, but consider a fluffy keyring harmless – or easier to hide. How else to explain the proliferation of fox-fur iPhone cases (£400), mink Prada bag straps (£730), raccoon-trimmed parkas and even Anya Hindmarch mink fur stickers with which to decorate your bag (at £250, let’s hope the adhesive is strong)? Nor is this solely a high-fashion trend. A raccoon pompom hat costs as little as £20.

“What we call ‘a little bit of tat’,” Newkirk says, disapprovingly. She clips the words, as if this is a matter of taste rather than ethics, which seems surprising until she slips, all in the same well-spoken voice, into details of cruelty to animals to make any listener flinch.

Take this story about Beyoncé. The musician is top of Newkirk’s fantasy list of celebrities to front a Peta campaign, but she has proved resistant, even though Newkirk sent her and Jay-Z a faux-fur bedspread as a wedding gift and received “a beautiful letter back”. To continue the courtship, Newkirk arranged for a Petaemployee to bid for lunch with Beyoncé in a charity auction.

Along went Hannah from the Peta office in Norfolk, Virginia, and settled down across the table from Beyoncé and Beyoncé’s mother. “And at the lunch,” Newkirk continues, “Hannah brought out a little video and said, ‘I wanted to show you something,’ and showed Beyoncé a video of raccoon dogs being anally electrocuted.” Hannah from the Peta office must have lost Beyoncé at anal electrocution because Beyoncé’s mother apparently promptly whisked her daughter out the restaurant, and Peta was later refunded its bid money.

Newkirk flits from fur to dog leather to the new frontier – feathers.

“Look,” Newkirk says, standing up to show off her new quilted coat by a company called Save the Duck. It looks and feels as if there is down inside, but no, she says, it is stuffed with recycled bottle tops. She is equally excited about Vegea, a new wine leather made from grape skins; pineapple leather; and Stella McCartney’s advances in “skin-free skin”.

Oh, and there is another new frontier. Last winter, Alicia Silverstone stripped off for an update of Peta’s seminal “I’d rather go naked …” advert, but this time the slogan was: “I’d rather go naked than wear wool.”

Wool? Well, they’re never going to win that one.

“Oh, we will!” Newkirk exclaims. “Young people, they’re right on top of it. They understand it. And sheep are so gentle, they’re so dear!” Last year, secret footage that Peta had gathered from sheep-shearing huts in Victoria, Australia, helped to bring about the first convictions of sheep shearers in Australia for cruelty.

“People would always say: ‘It’s just shearing. It’s a haircut …’ The shearers, a lot of them are on amphetamines because they have to work at speed. Men punching these sheep. They smash them on their backs, they punch them on their face. With their fists, with the metal clippers, they sew them up without [painkiller].

“Showed Joaquin [Phoenix] this video,” she says – she has a habit of eliding the pronoun, so it’s not clear if she or a Peta colleague did the showing, but maybe the two amount to the same. Phoenix is a vegan who nonetheless wore wool suits. After he saw the video, “Joaquin did a television ad for us and a print ad for us, wearing his new vegan suit, and saying: ‘I didn’t know.’” The suit was made from so-called “future wool”. Humans are allowed to make mistakes, as long as they repent.


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ن : lynnegarrett
ت : دوشنبه 3 مهر 1396

Yasmin Sewell on getting ahead of summer trends now and what to buy next

Vogue caught up with Yasmin Sewell, street style aficionado and Westfield’s newest style muse, as the fashion fixture landed in Sydney for Westfield’s spring/summer ’17 campaign.

We asked Sewell all our (and hopefully your) most difficult-to-answer fashion questions as it’s not often you get a chance to quiz a fashion legend.

“I think it’s a really bold season,” Sewell proclaims. “It’s about clashing things in an unusual way and I think people could be a little cautious, because it’s pink with red and florals with florals and unusual coloured accessories like white shoes or kitten heels – things that feel a little different. I think it’s about trying new things and mixing those things up.”

Aside from a technicolour field of florals making its way into your wardrobe, Sewell suggests getting familiar with the new oversized trend that’s already a staple amongst fashion die hards.

“It’s about new silhouettes, oversize, which we all understand because we’re in fashion, but I think if you’re a consumer and you’ve never worn an oversized coat or jacket, you can feel like the Michelin man,” jokes Sewell.

If you can get your head around mixing bold hues together or fitting white shoes into your wardrobe from now on, Sewell also suggests taking note of gold accents for the season ahead as she will personally be investing in all of the above.

“Blazers! Big man-style, boxy blazers,” Sewell says she will be investing in next, also “shoes that are pointy toe, really elongating, white boots – I’m wearing them almost every day and lots of gold jewellery and lots of print.”

So there you have it, the rules for the season ahead according to Yasmin Sewell.
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ن : lynnegarrett
ت : پنجشنبه 30 شهريور 1396

What Do Fashion Buyers Do At Fashion Week?

Fashion week might appear to be all glitz and glam, new-season reveals, fashion kisses and late-night parties, but in reality it's a business hub that employs far more people than those that get papped on the FROW.

One group of people who's jobs are less transparent than that of the editors writing show reviews or influencers snapping selfies is buyers. Employed by boutiques and department stores alike, these important industry-shapers decide what goes into shops, and therefore, essentially into our wardrobes.

Why do you go to fashion week?

As London Fashion Week begins, we caught up with 26-year-old Harry Fisher, senior buyer at one of our favourite Soho-based boutiques, Machine-A, to understand what it takes to break into buying and how having a signature taste can impact your work overall:As a store, Machine-A is very involved in fashion week. It’s a great time to see everyone from the industry – especially from overseas - in store and at the shows. We attend fashion week shows to see what our existing brands are showing for the coming season. And also, to scout new designers for upcoming seasons. This London Fashion Week I’m most looking forward to Fashion East, Paula Knorr, Ashish and Dilara Findikoglu.

How has see-now/buy-now impacted on buyers?

I think the idea behind see-now/buy-now is quite exciting for buyers: it generates impulsive buys, and instant hype. However, I think big brands doing this has put major pressure on younger and smaller designers.

How much does the hype an item receives on social media impact how likely you are to buy it in?

We definitely have to take into account many aspects of a collection when buying. Social media can give us an insight into what people love and will want to see move of in store. As a store, our buy is renowned for representing the catwalk looks quite literally. So, when buying we are always looking for the stand-out pieces.

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ن : lynnegarrett
ت : سه شنبه 28 شهريور 1396
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